More gluing and shaping
All of the frames were stitched in, however after reading some of the entries on the i550class.org forum, I decided to remove the three center frames (89, 110, and 124) and double them up making each frame 1/2" thick instead of 1/4". This should give me substantially more strength in the center of the boat where the majority of the stresses are concentrated. While the frames are out, I filetted and taped the chine seams with glass biax tape. I'm in the process of gluing on the shear clamps. Once both sides are done, I'l put zip-tie the frames back in and then filet and tape the seams. Should be done this weekend.
In the mean time, I continue to work on the keel, and almost have the final shape set. Of course, I'm expecting to have to do quite a bit of fairing with this item. It will be a shame to cover up the mahogany with carbon fiber cloth.
The keel by the way uses a NACA 0012 shape. I plugged the formula for a NACA foil into Microsoft Excel, and plotted the results. I then adjusted the size of the plot in the spreadsheet until the print-out was "life sized". I then used those print-out as a template for the foil.
Phil, can you elaborate more on the sheer strips? Is it a varying timber section, or do you glue on an oversized square section and plane down to flush with deck later? Appreciate your guidance. I'm coming to that now, but I've installed (filleted and taped) all the frames.
ReplyDeleteI actually scarfed together two 1" x 2" x 10' cedar planks to make a single 20 ft piece of wood. I then cut this diagonally to make two shear clamps that were the full width at the top (so really cutting bottom of one side to the top of the other side). Needless to say, it takes a helper or two to feed in a 20 ft. plank into a table saw, although it could be done with a circular saw fi you are careful. I then clamped both shears the full length of the boat all at once. No problem if you've already glued in the frames. Use a multi-tool with a flush-cut blade to cut out the little triangles for the shear clamp. Those tools are almost essential for this project anyway if you don't have one, and they aren't that expensive compared to most tools. I didn't worry about the twist on the top of the shear clamp. I just leveled the whole thing out using a Stanley Surform (also an essential tool for $10 to $20) plane.
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