Tuesday, August 13, 2013
Thursday, July 25, 2013
Friday, October 26, 2012
I'm posting a couple of pictures here, just for fun. The one on the right shows the standing rigging on the boat. As described before, I used t-ball hooks and backing plates to anchor the shrouds to the mast. I installed stainless steel lined plastic fairleads in the spreaders for the shrouds to go through. As you can see on the upper spreader there is only one set of fairleads whereas there are two on the lowers. The two fairleads on the lowers are in-line and match the angle of the chain-plates.
Saturday, September 15, 2012
I had dozens of small tasks that I needed to accomplish before we took the boat on vacation. I finished most of them, but then I settled for leaving a few un-done. In any case, when I get back, I'll post details on some of those steps. For now, here are some pictures from this week in Maine.
My son Matt - last seen in this blog after we flipped the boat over last Thanksgiving.
Friday, August 24, 2012
I fabricated the cassette using the rudder foil as a mold. The first step was to wrap the finished rudder in 6 mill plastic with a couple of wraps to provide decent clearance between the cassette and the foil. I then used the same CF sleeving that I used to create the rudder foil for the inside and outside layers of the cassette, with layers of uni-directional carbon fiber in the middle layers. Once the epoxy set, I then glued on some "stand-offs" to hold some G10 (fiberglass) tubing in front of the leading edge of the rudder cassette. The tubing has a 3/8" inside diameter and is intended to hold the stainless steel pin. Once the epoxy was dry, I faired the area around the tube to insure a nice smooth finish and then wrapped 4" wide unidirectional strips of CF around the G10 tube. One point is that I used a single length of tubing along the leading edge of the cassette so that I didn't have to worry about aligning different sections of tube. I later cut off the tube sections that I didn't want. The picture above shows the cassette before I trimmed it to length. It also shows the "handle" which will attache to the tiller. The handle was fabricated using a piece of ordinary pink insulating foam from Home Depot. I turned the foam on a lathe to get the shape that I wanted (a slight taper from back to front). I then wrapped the foam with release cloth, then layers of CF (sleeves and uni) and then wrapped that in release cloth. Once everything hardened, I removed most of the foam using a 1" hole spade (flat drill bit). Using some needle-nosed pliers I took out the inside layer of release cloth, by just grabbing a corner of the cloth and twisting. After taking off the outside layer of release cloth and then cutting a U-shaped channel in the handle, I then epoxied it onto the cassette. I did drill a hole from the top of the handle to allow the rudder pin to be inserted from the top.
Friday, August 17, 2012
One of the best tips that I received at one time or another on one of the forums was to use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut the shrouds. This was so much easier than trying to cut these things with a hack-saw.
Like every other task on the boat, I got pretty good at measuring, cutting, and attaching the sta-lok terminals just as I wrapped up the last one.
Monday, August 13, 2012
I couldn't be happier with the way these came out. The only things left to do are:
- Fasten a stainless steel plate on the top of the keel. This will be done with the "Ikea" technique of drilling holes horizontally through the keel which will hold a nut and washer and then drilling down from the top for the bolt which holds on the top plate.
- I'm going to fabricate a handle for the top of the rudder out of cedar and mahogany. I left a 1-1/2" carbon fiber tab on top of the rudder to hold the handle.
- I still need to mold the rudder cassette. Now that the rudder is finished, I can use it as the mold for the cassette.